lamb ribs

Elyssa Heller’s homage to Jewish cooking around the world opened in January and has now added dinner service with dishes like pickled mackerel, Sephardic sweet potato curry, beef tongue amatriciana with homemade pasta, grilled shawarma lamb ribs, holishkes layered cabbage with mushrooms, and sweet kugel.

We crowded around a small table and cleaned a parade of plates: lamb ribs caked in cumin and pinned to a stainless steel tower like ornaments on a Christmas tree; translucent bits of fish head plucked from a mound of chopped peppers; garlicky, glistening eggplant, carved down to addictive little nubs.

The food veers toward Southern India, with dishes like urad bean and lentil dumplings, lamb ribs glazed with tamarind sauce and dusted with a cumin-coriander blend, roast trout with spicy red masala paste, and Goan Cornish hen flambéed in Indian rum.

A customer can pretty much point anywhere on the menu — numbing mapo tofu, stir-fried greens with garlic, spiced lamb ribs — and hit the jackpot.

Dishes include stir-fried water spinach, oysters, fried chicken, fried rice, barbecue red shrimp and crispy lamb ribs.