custard

Fish & Chips is Ramsay’s take on the classic British pub grub, with cod dusted and deep-fried under a crust of custard powder batter.

It can be made with layers of slices, but you open up your options if you decide to go with cubed bread, which you can dry out overnight or in the oven so that it better soaks up your custard made with eggs and milk, cream or half-and-half.

Sure enough, his steamed egg custard, fragrant with sesame oil, gets finished with bird’s-eye chiles, fish sauce and lime juice — a very Thai touch.

Without the crust, though, you are eating a mousse, a custard or a compote — delicious all, but distinctly not pie.

The golden yolks, high in fat, provide richness and color in custards and creams.