pancetta

It runs a family-style trattoria where pastas are crafted with unbelievable passion — cacio e pepe sauced ravioli stuffed with roasted meats, tordelli Lucchesi, stranded pastas with ragu — plus fava bean soups with pancetta.

Some will say, of course, that if it contains anything besides pasta, pancetta, cheese, eggs, salt and pepper, it’s not carbonara.

I’d sneak pancetta into dishes that didn’t call for it because, as another saying goes, “fat is flavor!”

Clams, which taste incredibly good simply steamed, are made even better with the addition of pancetta, or Italian bacon.