squab

But Sun Sui Wah’s most famous dish remains the roasted squab.

There were oysters, salmon with Hollandaise sauce, beef, squab, duck, roast chicken, green peas, parsnip purée and Victoria pudding.

Why is “squab” a delicious entree but a “pigeon” a rodent-like nuisance?

What sounds like a gimmick turns out to be luscious, and a first course of either chawanmushi or roast squab underscores a kitchen steeped in the classics.

The second choice, brined squab glazed with Guinness and cocoa, summons one of those restaurants you book months ahead for in France.