squab

My favorite bites included a stuffed squab with farro, black trumpet mushroom relish, and huckleberry, as well as a whimsical dish called “The Truffle Hunt.”

There were oysters, salmon with Hollandaise sauce, beef, squab, duck, roast chicken, green peas, parsnip purée and Victoria pudding.

Why is “squab” a delicious entree but a “pigeon” a rodent-like nuisance?

What sounds like a gimmick turns out to be luscious, and a first course of either chawanmushi or roast squab underscores a kitchen steeped in the classics.

Others, including squab glazed with Guinness and cocoa, channel a grand French restaurant.